All of Jude Law’s Looks on The Young Pope
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The Young Pope's Best Looks

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Lenny's Everyday Cassock

Photo: HBO

This white cassock is Lenny's everyday look. For the most part the piece is faithful to tradition, with some slight modifications for fit. "Lenny had to look handsome and fascinating even when wearing a simple cassock," said Carlo Poggioli and Luca Canfora. "His cassock is more close-fitting on the chest and round the shoulders compared to those popes usually wear. And to make it softer, the lining was made using a very light pure silk."

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Lenny's Big Sun Hat

Photo: HBO

"The proportions of the straw hats are larger than normal because director Paolo Sorrentino wanted Lenny’s face to be as much as possible in the shadow," said Poggioli and Canfora. (You know, he's a shy boy.) The hats themselves were made by the Pieroni Company in Rome, which is the milliner for the Vatican itself.

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Lenny's Clergyman Look

Photo: HBO

Just because Lenny Belardo is just a simple clergyman in this flashback doesn't mean that he isn't outfitted in something luxurious. This black outfit was made by Giorgio Armani, who is a "great friend" of Paolo Sorrentino's, and also clothed the people in Lenny's entourage, including all of Cecile de France's suits.

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Bathrobe Pope

Photo: HBO

The costume designers chose a waffle knit for Lenny's bathrobe because it reads as more of an "American" fabric to Italian eyes. The insignia is Pope Pius XIII's personal insignia — every pope has a different one, depending on his spiritual background (he's Jesuit, for instance). "The only things in common between all the popes are the symbol of the keys and the triregnum crown, which have appeared on papal insignia since eight centuries ago to the present day," said Poggioli and Canfora. You'll see the insignia on the Vatican flags, the carpet, and the sash he wears around his cassock.

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Big Speech Pope

Photo: HBO

This is the look that Pope Pius XIII wears in his first address to the faithful. While they could only see a silhouette of him, the outfit itself hews closely to what popes wear when they give their first address at the window of St. Peter's. "The popes have had this look for centuries," said Poggioli and Canfora. "Papal apparel is the only one in the world that has never undergone any aesthetic modification in centuries."

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Pajama Pope

Photo: HBO

All of Lenny's casual looks are in white, but never, of course, a bright, blinding white. "If the white is badly lit it can be very annoying visually and stand out too much compared to the other colors in the scene," said Poggioli and Canfora. So for all of the looks, the costume designers were careful to use a creamy-eggshell to dress Jude Law.

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Green Pope

Photo: HBO

The historical inspiration for this green cape came from a fresco from the late-15th century by Pinturicchio — in the Piccolomini Library in Siena Cathedral — where Pope Callistus III is shown wearing a green cape.

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Working Pope Look

Photo: HBO

For this scene, Pope Pius XIII begrudgingly baptizes a line of babies. There are a lot of layers to this look, including white shorts, a shirt with a clerical collar, a white cassock with no cape, and "the gown." The colors white and gold are used for liturgical festivities. He's wearing the amice around his neck — a handkerchief designed to make "the entire apparel tidier and aesthetically cleaner."

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The Embroidered Tunic

Photo: HBO

"We used a richly embroidered white cassock to stress Lenny’s passage from a certain simplicity that distinguishes his character in the early episodes to the magnificent exaltation of old-fashioned traditional papal power," the designers said. The embroideries are typical of the 19th century.

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Touch His Tracksuit. It's Cashmere.

Photo: HBO

For this casual-pope look, Jude Law is wearing cashmere sweatpants and a hoodie provided by La Perla, the Italian luxury brand best known for women's lingerie.

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Getting-Ready Pope

Photo: HBO

This is the pope's big fashion moment: a montage of Jude Law putting on his many layers, starting with this plain, white cassock (no capelet), just one of the many layers he'll be putting on to LMFAO's "Sexy and I Know It."

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The Gown

Photo: HBO

One of the many layers the pope wears for his big events is "the gown," which the designers describe as "a long white cotton tunic usually embellished with lace at the bottom and on the sleeves." It's then tied around the waist with another belt of fabric called the cincture.

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The Full Look

Photo: HBO

In this case, the big embroidered cape that Pope Pius is wearing is called "the cope," which harkens back to medieval times. The surplice he's wearing underneath is embroidered with gold filaments and gilded lace. "We used red for the cope because, together with white, it is the color used for papal apparel during important ceremonies," said Poggioli and Canfora.

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The Crown

Photo: HBO

Pope Lenny made the cardinals wait for his first address because he wanted to wear the tiara, known as a triregnum. Worn by Paul VI, it was the last papal tiara to have been used. Paul VI gave it up as a symbol of the papacy's abdication of temporal power, and the tiara is now at the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception in Washington, D.C.

In The Young Pope, Pope Pius XIII gets the tiara back, challenging the tradition established by his predecessor. The papal tiara is a replica of Paul VI's, only it uses fake materials (the real one is metal) in felt painted silver. "He wore the red cape and the triregnum for hours on end and never complained," said Poggioli and Canfora. "He actually kept thanking us because it helped him enter his character, in other words, understanding the sheer weight of a Pope’s responsibility even through the weight of the papal apparel."

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The Shoes

Photo: HBO

Carrie Bradshaw would be proud: the pope took great care to pick the right shoes. He chose a red, embroidered pair for his big day. These handmade shoes were embroidered on red Venetian velvet, the color that symbolizes the blood spilled during the Passion of the Christ.

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His Pope's Greenness

Photo: HBO

Green symbolizes a more "everyday" color, so in this second address to the cardinals, he's wearing a green embroidered cape and miter. The clasp is made of fake emeralds.

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Gold-for-Days Pope

Photo: HBO

Pope Lenny Belardo knows that fashion is the way to flex. So in this testy first meeting with the prime minister of Italy, he wears a massive white cape with gold filagree and a gold clasp. Fake diamonds adorn the giant clasp, made by the Roman company Jewel House, which also made all of the rings and crucifixes in the show.

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Tyrannical Pope

Photo: HBO

Another meeting, another flex. In this scene, Pope Pius XIII meets with a group of barefoot Franciscan monks who demand his resignation. Lenny leans into his extravagance. Poggioli and Canfora said that this was one of their "favorite" scenes because of the contrast between the "fake poor" appearance of the monks and Lenny's lavish dress. "And if you watch carefully, you’ll find that the frame begins with a detail of Lenny’s flaming shoes, specially made for Jude by Louboutin in Paris (shoes that I’d dubbed “the Ferraris”), contrasting with the bare soiled feet of the 'fake poor' monks," said Poggioli and Canfora. "A touch of genius, like in all the frames of Sorrentino’s movies: never trivial, never repeating themselves!"

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Workout Pope

Photo: HBO

Lenny Belardo does pilates in La Perla.

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Fall-Winter Papal Collection

Photo: HBO

Look at this fur capelet!

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The Pope's Everyday Look, Part 2

Photo: HBO

Once he's asserted his dominion over the rest of the cardinals, the pope really gets into filagree looks.

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Underwater Pope

Photo: HBO

This pope is not worried about the dangers of a white bathing suit.

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Veiled Pope

Photo: HBO

Pope Pius XIII serves Sia realness.

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The Pope Goes to Africa!

Photo: HBO

For his trip to Africa, the Pope puts on a red silk cape and red straw hat for the occasion.

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The Sunglasses

Photo: HBO

They're Armani, duh.

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